♦ M.A. Đang Thi Anh Tuyet

thuongIf Phở is a refined morning gift that awakens Hanoians with the soul-stirring aroma of star anise and cinnamon, then Bún chả is the undisputed "king" of the luncheon. It is a dish where the hazy sunlight of the capital harmonizes with the fragrant smoke of grilled pork, permeating every corner of the city's alleys. No one knows exactly when Bún chả was born; we only know that it has always been there, interwoven with the memories of generations of Tràng An people, becoming one of the most distinguished and seductive representatives of Hanoi’s millennial civilization.

thuongHanoi is famed for its "thirty-six streets and guilds," and it seems that on every street, one can find a Bún chả establishment - ranging from luxurious, air - conditioned restaurants to itinerant vendors on street corners and sidewalks, nestled under the shade of ancient mahogany trees. Yet, the true pleasure for a Hanoian is partaking in Bún chả on the sidewalk.

thuongIt is often said that Bún chả is a relative of the grilled pork vermicelli found in Central or Southern Vietnam, but in reality, Hanoi’s Bún chả possesses an entirely distinct character. It does not mix all ingredients into a single large bowl; rather, it is a sophisticated arrangement of separate components: a shimmering golden bowl of dipping sauce containing the grilled pork, a plate of ivory-white vermicelli, and a basket of vibrant green aromatic herbs. This is a philosophy of separation followed by unification - a quintessentially elegant trait of Northern people. As the old saying goes: "In a thousand years, who could easily forget grilled pork and bún chả-the flavors of the immortals."

thuongAt first glance, Bún chả appears simple: vermicelli, meat, and fish sauce. However, to craft a "standard" Hanoi portion, the chef must instill meticulousness and refinement into every minor detail.

thuongA bowl of Bún chả always features two types of grilled meat: chả viên (pork patties) and chả miếng (sliced pork). The chả miếng is prepared from high-quality pork belly with a harmonious ratio of lean to fat. The meat is sliced into moderately thin pieces, marinated with premium fish sauce, minced dried shallots, a hint of sugar, and caramel water cooked to a perfect amber hue. The difficulty lies in marinating so the meat absorbs the flavors without becoming salty; when grilled, the fat must become translucent and slightly crunchy without being greasy, while the lean part remains tender and succulent. Chả viên is typically made from minced pork shoulder (not ground into a paste like giò sống). Mincing by hand preserves the texture and natural sweetness of the fibers. This minced meat is mixed with finely diced pork fat, seasoned, and shaped into flattened rounds.

thuongHowever, the ultimate secret lies in the grilling technique. Hanoi Bún chả must be grilled over than hoa (charcoal); no microwave or electric stove can replicate its essence. The griller must be a true artist, continuously fanning with a traditional palm leaf fan to keep the embers glowing without letting flames scorch the meat. As the rendered fat drips onto the coals, it sizzles and releases an "intoxicating" smoke - a seductive fragrance that the writer Thach Lam once described as something that "could move even the hearts of the most devout ascetics."

thuongIf the grilled meat is the soul, the dipping sauce is the heart - the decisive factor that distinguishes one establishment from another. The sauce is not pure fish sauce but a "golden ratio" blend of fish sauce, vinegar (or lime), sugar, filtered water, garlic, and chili. The final product must possess a clear amber color with a perfect equilibrium of salty, sweet, sour, and spicy notes. Crucially, the sauce must be kept warm before being poured over the grilled meat. 

thuongSubmerged in this sauce are slices of green papaya and carrots, carved into flower shapes and pickled to a crisp texture. The gentle acidity and crunch of the papaya balance the richness of the grilled pork, ensuring the diner never tires of the taste.

thuongThe vermicelli used is typically bún rối - fine, ivory - white strands that are soft and smooth yet resilient. These cool strands serve as a neutral foundation, elevating the robust flavors of the meat and sauce. An indispensable accompaniment is the basket of fresh herbs: lettuce, Vietnamese balm (kinh giới), perilla (tía tô), coriander, and Láng basil. These characteristic tropical herbs not only enhance the visual appeal but also amplify the flavor profile and aid digestion.

thuongEating Bún chả is also a "craft." Hanoians do not rush this meal. When the portion is served, steam still rises from the bowl of grilled meat. The diner takes a small bunch of vermicelli, submerges it into the sauce filled with meat and pickles, adds a few herb leaves, and takes it all in one bite. Immediately, the senses are awakened: the savory sweetness of the char - edged meat, the gentle tang of the sauce, the coolness of the vermicelli, and the pungent aroma of the herbs. It is an explosive yet remarkably smooth experience. Many also order nem cua bể (square crab spring rolls) as a side. These crispy, square parcels filled with succulent crab meat are the perfect "duo" for Bún chả, creating a lavish feast for the palate.

thuongBefore 2016, Bún chả was already famous, but the moment U.S. President Barack Obama and the legendary chef Anthony Bourdain enjoyed the dish at a small eatery on Lê Văn Hưu Street propelled it onto the global gastronomic map. The image of the world's most powerful president sitting on a simple blue plastic stool, holding a cold Hanoi beer and skillfully handling his chopsticks, became a symbol of the openness, simplicity, and irresistible charm of Vietnamese cuisine. Since then, international tourists visiting Hanoi have yearned to taste the "President's dish."

thuongHowever, for the inhabitants of the capital, Bún chả does not need such limelight to shine. It has been a "star" in the hearts of food connoisseurs for centuries. Hanoi Bún chả is not merely a dish; it is a code of conduct, a space for communal life. Amidst the sweltering summer heat, sitting in a small shop, hearing the sizzle of fat, and smelling the charcoal smoke clinging to one's hair and clothes, one finds a deeper love for this land.

thuongWherever they may go, Hanoians always carry a profound longing for that flavor - a taste that is rustic yet noble, common yet sophisticated. Bún chả has been, is, and will forever be an integral part of the spirit and an inseparable pride of Hanoi’s culinary culture - a heritage grilled on glowing red embers, encapsulating the total devotion of the Tràng An people.

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References

1.     Vu Bang (1959). Hanoi Delicacies. Writers Association Publishing House.

2.     Nguyen Thi Phuong Cham (2019). Sidewalk Culture in Contemporary Hanoi. Vietnam Journal of Social Sciences.

3.     Song Thao (2022). Bún chả Hanoi. Source: https://tranthinguyetmai.wordpress.com/2022/07/22/bun-cha-ha-noi/