♦ M.A. Dang Thi Anh Tuyet

thuongHuong Pagoda has long been one of the preeminent symbols of the spiritual life and religious culture of the Vietnamese people. Renowned not only as a scenic complex of "son thuy huu tinh" (picturesque mountains and waters), Huong Pagoda is also a sacred pilgrimage site - a sanctuary where individuals seek inner peace, immerse themselves in nature, and reflect amidst a profound historical and cultural space. Each spring, the pagoda welcomes millions of pilgrims, creating a vibrant tableau of faith, festivals, and national tradition.

thuongIn terms of geography and scale, Huong Pagoda, also known as Huong Son (Fragrant Mountain), is situated in Huong Son Ward, Hanoi, approximately 60 km southwest of the city center. This is not a single edifice but an expansive cultural-spiritual complex comprising dozens of pagodas, temples, communal houses, shrines, and grottoes scattered along the Yen Stream valley and the limestone Huong Son mountain range.

thuongThe heart of the complex is Thien Tru Pagoda (the Outer Pagoda) and Huong Tich Grotto (the Inner Pagoda) - the latter famously dubbed "Nam thien de nhat dong" (The Foremost Grotto under the Southern Skies). The entire landscape is a harmonious synthesis of Buddhist architecture and majestic natural scenery, creating an atmosphere that is simultaneously sacred, poetic, and contemplative.

thuongAccording to historical records, Huong Pagoda took shape in the late 17th century during the Later Lê Dynasty. In 1686, the Venerable Monk Trần Đạo Viên Quang discovered Huong Tich Grotto and established the first places of worship there. In 1770, during a visit, Lord Trịnh Sâm inscribed five characters - “Nam thien de nhat dong” - affirming the unique beauty and value of this cavern.

thuongHuong Pagoda is intrinsically linked to the veneration of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Quán Thế Âm Bồ Tát), symbolizing compassion and the alleviation of suffering. In the Vietnamese psyche, a pilgrimage to Huong Pagoda is not merely an act of ritual to pray for prosperity and peace; it is a journey of self-cultivation, a quest for goodness, and a restoration of spiritual equilibrium. thuongDespite historical vicissitudes, the site has preserved its core religious and architectural values, remaining one of the largest Buddhist and festival centers in Northern Vietnam.

thuongOne of the distinctive features of Huong Pagoda is its unique journey of approach. Visitors typically begin by taking a boat along the Yen Stream—a 4-km waterway that winds gracefully between undulating mountains, seasonal reed fields, and water lilies.

thuongSitting on the boat, one can fully perceive the tranquil beauty of nature, listening to the gentle rhythm of oars against the water, harmonized with the wind and the sounds of the forest birds. In spring, the banks are vibrant with blossoms; in autumn, they offer a distinctively profound stillness.

thuongUpon disembarking, pilgrims continue their journey on foot or via cable car to reach the spiritual sites. Each step is an act of soul-searching, returning to the true self, and moving toward the Dharma.

thuongThien Tru Pagoda is a focal point of religious activity - the largest and most significant temple in the complex. Situated on a broad, level expanse surrounded by protective mountains, it possesses a harmonious feng shui alignment. The architecture reflects the traditional Vietnamese Buddhist style, featuring a three-door gate (tam quan), a bell tower, a front hall, and a back sanctuary, all arranged in balanced proportions. The space is both solemn and intimate, providing a place for pilgrims to offer incense and rest before ascending to the Inner Pagoda.

thuongHuong Tich Grotto, the "soul" of Huong Pagoda, requires visitors to overcome a lengthy mountain climb. This physical journey signifies a test of patience and sincerity. Inside, the cavern opens into a vast space adorned with natural stalactites and stalagmites shaped by time, given folk names such as the Girl Mountain, Boy Mountain, Pearl Well, Gold Tree, and Silver Tree. Each formation is associated with human aspirations for happiness, progeny, wealth, and fulfillment. The fusion of ethereal natural beauty and spiritual faith makes Huong Tich one of the most sacred sites in the Vietnamese heart.

thuongVisiting Huong Pagoda also means participating in the Huong Pagoda Festival - one of the longest and largest festivals in Vietnam, commencing on the 6th day of the first lunar month and lasting until the end of the third. It is not only a time for pilgrimage but also a unique space for communal cultural life. During these months, throngs of people join the festivities in a jubilant yet respectful atmosphere, reflecting the enduring spiritual life and cultural traditions of the nation.

thuongIn the contemporary era, Huong Pagoda serves as a crucial spiritual, cultural, and ecological tourism destination for Hanoi and the country. While infrastructure and services have been enhanced for convenience, the primordial essence of the landscape remains intact. It is a place where one can temporarily retreat from the clamor of urban life to find a serene space for self-reflection.

thuongMore than a famous landmark, Huong Pagoda is a symbol of the spiritual odyssey of the Vietnamese - a return to one's roots and a movement toward benevolence and tranquility. Amidst the majestic mountains and waters, with the echoes of temple bells and the quiet flow of the Yen Stream, Huong Pagoda emerges as a sacred land where one can release worldly burdens and find peace and faith in life.

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References

1. Tran Thi Tuyet Mai – Hanoi University of Culture (2022). The Cultural Beauty of the Huong Pagoda Festival in Former Times.

2. Thai Nguyen Newspaper (2009). Reflections from Huong Pagoda.

3.  ACC Hanoi (2025). A Brief History of Huong Tich Pagoda, Hanoi.

4. Son Duong (2023). The Relic and Scenic Complex of Huong Son (My Duc District).

5. Nguyen Tri Son, M.A. (2006). Huong Tich Pagoda. Cultural Heritage Magazine, Issue 96.