♦ Dr. Le Thi Thu Huong

(continued from Part 1)

Elegance in cuisine

According to sociological surveys, more than 90.1 percent of respondents believe that the elegance of Hanoians is clearly expressed through cuisine. Late Professor Tran Quoc Vuong also emphasized that “the way people eat reflects the way they live; it is a marker of cultural identity.” As a political, economic, and cultural exchange center, Hanoi has long had favorable conditions to absorb culinary experiences from regions across the country as well as from abroad. As a result, Hanoi cuisine has reached a refined level and has been vividly portrayed in many literary works such as Hanoi 36 Pho Phuong by Thach Lam, Mieng Ngon Hanoi, and Thuong Nho Muoi Hai by Vu Bang… The elegance of Hanoi is not only reflected in the dishes themselves but also in the manner of eating and the presentation of food. Hanoians do not eat merely to be full, but to savor flavors; therefore, eating has been elevated into a form of “culinary culture.” Another defining feature of Hanoi cuisine is its moderation and simplicity. Writer Hoang Dao Thuy once observed that “even in a place of prosperity, eating remains restrained and modest.” Hanoians eat calmly and unhurriedly, taking time to appreciate the flavor of each dish. In meals, respect for elders and the etiquette of invitation are highly valued, as expressed in the saying, “a greeting is worth more than a feast.” The culinary culture of Thang Long – Hanoi is not only about skillful food preparation, but also about a high level of artistry in organizing meals and appreciating food. This has become a hallmark of elegance, leaving a deep cultural imprint and creating a lingering sense of nostalgia for both domestic and international visitors after they leave Hanoi.

Hanoi culinary culture also encompasses refined table manners and behavior

Elegance in communication and social conduct

Alongside cuisine, communication and social behavior are considered the most highly valued domains, widely regarded as the primary expressions of Hanoian elegance. People of ancient Thang Long and modern Hanoi place great importance on propriety and decorum. Living in the country’s foremost political, cultural, and educational center, many residents were scholars and well-educated individuals who upheld refined manners and courtesy in communication. Their style of interaction exerted a broad influence within a community that respected learning and knowledge. This refinement is first evident in speech. The Hanoi accent itself is often described as gentle and refined, reflected in the saying, “the refined speak with a refined voice.” Through speech alone, one can recognize a Hanoian. “Hanoi speech is characterized as self-respecting and respectful of the listener: gentle without being weak, confident without arrogance, intelligent without ostentation, selective without affectation, quick-witted without impatience, simple without being simplistic, respectful without flattery.”[1]. Language is not only about tone, but also about etiquette in speaking, expressed through polite forms such as respectful address, courteous responses, and proper demeanor.

Writer Vu Ngoc Phan once noted that “Although old Hanoi, like other places of the time, had both refined and coarse individuals, in daily interaction it was rare to encounter rudeness or vulgar behavior among Hanoians"[2]. This observation reinforces the image of Hanoians as elegant in their manner of conduct, marked by gentleness and tact. Elegance in communication is also evident in hospitality, a distinctive social practice. In relations with friends and guests, Hanoians traditionally display hospitality that is warm yet restrained, friendly but not overly familiar. When guests arrive, even a busy host is expected to stand up to greet them. Proper attire is required when receiving guests; wearing shorts or sleepwear is considered inappropriate. The practice of serving tea further reflects refinement and subtlety: tea offered to guests is always of good quality, and in some households it is even scented with lotus, jasmine, or ngau flowers to enhance its aroma. During meals, Hanoians observe established norms such as “eat with awareness of the pot, sit with awareness of direction,” and always behave thoughtfully when elders or guests are present, offering the best dishes and even yielding portions to guests. This consistency and propriety in communication and conduct constitute the clearest expression of the elegant character of Hanoians.

Speech, forms of address, and greetings in Hanoi communication consistently convey refinement, restraint, and respect in a distinctive manner 

Today, among certain segments of Hanoi residents, especially younger generations, the traditional elegance of communication and conduct has been partially eroded under the pressures of fast-paced urban life, limited reading, and reduced observation and reflection. To preserve the elegant communicative character of Hanoians, the capital is actively promoting the construction of “Hanoi People’s Culture,” identified as a core and ongoing mission within the movement All People Unite to Build a Cultural Life. This effort begins with simple actions such as “speaking kindly, doing good deeds, and cultivating a graceful style,” from families to residential communities and society at large. Cultural conduct thus remains an essential quality of the elegant and modern Hanoian today.

(To be continued...)